Islamabad is Islamagood

20 May 2009

So we’ve made it to Pakistan. The country we’ve been curious and eager to get to since the beginning of the trip. Despite everything that is on the news, we had a feeling this country had a lot to offer. We met many travellers who had passed through Pakistan and were returning once more, so we were confident we would be safe.

Crossing the border took no time. We arrived at the Wagha border at 330 and were into Pakistan and finished with all the paperwork by 415ish. We had to move the clock ahead 30 minutes. We thought we would be going back in time, but Pakistan has daylight savings, so we are ahead of India. Right away in Pakistan, I was being ignored by some men. At the border, I rolled down my window to speak to a customs officer who refused to look or speak to me. He look at Jonny and said “Your wife? your wife?”. It was like he was wondering where his wife was...Jonny realized he was asking about me and answered him. I guess I’ll have to get used to that...

We found the hotel right near customs where we would park for the night. We changed our last 200 Indian Rupes (4 USD) into Pakistani Rupees and had enough for quite a few cold soft drinks. Things are actually cheaper in Pakistan than in India. We went to see the border closing ceremony again. This time, we go to see a lot more because we were allowed to sit right in front. We got some nice video footage and are looking forward to sharing it!

The next day, we drove out of the customs compound and into real Pakistan. We headed to Lahore. The countryside is pretty dry and desolate... The drivers are more civilized that in India (they use their signal lights the way we do, and honk less liberally). Once in Lahore, we found a hotel that was recommended to us. It was clean and cheap and friendly. There were many westerners staying there, most were frolicking around Pakistan. We had a chance to get laundry done, and it dried instantly in the 50C weather. I washed many items of clothing I knew I wouldn’t wear for quite a while...Pakistan and Iran prefers their women in potato sacks.

Outside of the hotel, one man told me to cover my hair. I was a little shocked! I was wearing a loose t-shirt and baggy Thai pants. I didn’t realize I would have to cover up in Pakistan... I was told by the hotel attendees it was better to wear a scarf on my head. I guess I’ll have to get used to that too.

We went to food street to get dinner, it was splendid. I got a new watch battery and the man refused to take my money! He said my watch was cheap and he liked Canadians so he gave it to me as a gift. So nice. I bought some tunics to fit in a little better, and I fought until I had a local price. People seemed generally happy to make our acquaintance, it is nice. People stop us on the street to shake our hands.

After one night in Lahore we moved on to Islamabad to apply for our Iranian visas. On the way, we stopped for a milkshake, one thing Pakistanis do very well, and have available everywhere. For about 50 cents you get a HUGE milkshake (or ice cream shake) with the fruit of your choice! Once it was time to pay, our money was refused. It turns out the manager of the super modern rest stop lived in Montreal for 6 years! He invited us in his office. It was so strange to hear “Cote Vertu, Laval, Parc Extension”...with a Pakistani accent! He was a fast food delivery man in Montreal and in Pakistan, he owns and operates a petrol stop, hotel, restaurant and tuck shop....He seems to be a very well respected man. It makes you realize that the immigrants who come to Canada (or any country) for a better life, lived very different lives in their home country.

MC

JD continues

We made it to Islamabad, at the camp site we heard so much about, without a hitch. It is very nicely located right next to Apbara market, so all necessities are easily available. At the campsite, a few fellow travellers were there and we chatted about the latest news on visas and road conditions, and soon after crashed in bed. The road really wears you out!

Next day we went straight to the Iranian embassy. We got dropped off at a strange airport-like building, where you had to buy a bus ticket for the embassy of your choice. It turns out all the embassies are located in a super safe compound, and most people cannot enter without going through these government-run bus services.

At the Iranian embassy, we were again surprised to see copious amounts of pot growing right across the street. It smelled really nice at first, but got overwhelming after a while! The staff at the embassy were really friendly and helpful, and answering all of our questions with a smile. We submitted our application, and got warned that it isn’t up to them to grant the visas, but that they receive orders from the foreign ministry in Teheran. We stayed optimistic, and headed back to camp, stopping on the way for “Checken Cheez Bargars”. Yum yum. Quiet dinner with our friends at the camp, and off to bed.

Yesterday was a big day for the wombat, as we headed over to Toyota and opened up the hood to get the timing belt replaced. Unfortunately, due to the wombats size, it couldn’t fit in the workshop, so all the work had to be done in the sun outside. In no time, the work was done, and we took the afternoon to inspect and clean the break pads, balance the wheels, and check the transmission oil. There seems to be a slight leak in the rear suspension, so we might go back at a later date and have a look at that. But for the rest, it was high quality work for a very decent price! Nadeem, the mechanic who did all the work on the wombat, admitted later that his nickname in the workshop was ‘Cruiser Master’. Awesome!

Now we plan on heading up the famous Karakoram highway, maybe all the way to the Chinese border. It is supposed to be really beautiful, and the people really hospitable, although it will be tough to beat the warm reception we’ve had so far in Pakistan!

JD