Daramsala, Our Last Tour in India

14 May 2009

We are about to say goodbye to India. In a few days, we’ll head back to Amristar and cross into Pakistan.

We are still waiting on iranianvisa.com for the documents to proceed with our visa application. Hopefully, everything will be ready soon. We hope to meet up with some friends we made in New Delhi. We are all going in the same direction, so it will be nice to get a little convoy going.

Last week was nice and relaxing. We didn’t do much in Kashmir, but that’s exactly why we went there! We wanted to cool off in the mountains and take in the fresh air. After our time in Sri Nagar, we decided to head North, into the mountains. Our plan was to do a big loop and head to Leh and then straight south to Daramsala. It would mean taking the wombat about 4500m. Our dear friend, and fellow Landcruiser owner, Dave, gave us incredibly useful tips before taking the wombat to high altitudes. Click here to read the tips he gave us. Thanks a million Dave! Realizing that The Wombat was not properly equipped to travel at very high altitudes, and knowing it would be a risk to go to Leh, we decided to turn around after Sonamarg. It’s too big a risk when you still have +15000km ahead of you to finish your journey. Also, we don’t like to “wing it” with our wombe, we like him too much.

So driving to Sonamarg, we got stuck in traffic. In the middle of nowhere in mountain country this usually means: a landslide, construction or an accident. Jonny got out of the car to investigate as I slept (high altitudes really get to me...my first time at high altitude I woke up wearing 2 jackets next to a man called Raul, another story). Who did Jonny see a few cars ahead of us?? ADAM! We thought he was back in England! It was such a coincidence to see him on this random road to Sonamarg. It turns out he extended his holiday to see Sri Nagar. Amazing! We spent the day with him and Catherine, frolicking about the mountains, checking out the glacier. They left that evening, and Jonny and I camped with a gorgeous view. Lucky they left when they did, because the next day was effing freezing, and it rained/wet snowed the entire day. We stayed in the wombat, cooking, playing cards and reading.

We left Kashmir after having had an amazing time. It is truly a beautiful place where you don’t really have to do anything to enjoy yourself. Taking in the gorgeous views is enough!

Now we’re in Daramsala, actually McLeodgang. Residence of the Dalai Lama and the Tibetan government in exile. The whole town is like a Tibetan education centre. There are many foreigners, more than I’ve seen anywhere else in India (but we didn’t go to Goa...) There are people selling Tibetan crafts all over the place (many old ladies knitting next to their stalls), there are monks and nuns walking about, and the whole atmosphere is pretty welcoming. The Dalai Lama is here, but as far as we know he is not giving lectures.

We parked the car about 2 kilometres from town. It’s at a parking lot near a catholic church, in the forest. It’s really nice and calm. We’re staying there, without a problem. A man tried to charge us for parking today, but you must be weary! He looked just like a random guy, and he didn’t have receipts. No receipt, no money! Sorry!

It’s going to be strange to leave India. It feels like we’ve been here for ages. We’ve really gotten used to the pace of things here... Today, we’ve been on the road for 7 months. I’ve been away from Canada for over 2 years now... Time flies doesn’t it? I remember 5th grade feeling like an eternity, and the most menial things being so important. Now that I’m a “grown up”, times goes by so fast that I hardly have time for anything anymore! Crazy.

We don’t know how internet will be in Pakistan, but I’m sure we’ll have no problem giving updates in Lahore. They love Landcruisers there, so we’ll have the wombat checked out.

Marie-Claude

Kashmir is just what we need

7 May 2009

We had a very fun time in New Delhi, making friends with French people and hanging out, but it was time to move along. We were keen to go north and escape the +40C weather.

First, we drove to Amristar. We attended the gate closing ceremony at the border. It was so great to witness! The Indian stands were completely packed. Before the ceremony started, there was running with flags, dancing to bangra, trumpets and chanting. Then, the guards on both sides march by kicking their legs and flinging their knees up very high. They intimidate each other before lowering the flags and closing the gates for the night. Apparently it’s all in good fun and the guys all get together for tea after the whole thing. Anyway, we really had a blast! The crowd was wild! One very special thing was that we saw some of our friends... on the Pakistani side! We met them at Nehru park, while they were also sorting out their Iranian visa. They were able to get theirs, and were heading back to France. We saw each other in the morning, and then waved to each other from opposite sides of the borders in the evening. I got yelled at by the guards for waving to them wildly... I guess in the spirit of the ceremony, we can’t show we’re friends with Pakistan. Et bien, amusez vous bien Benoit, Amandine et Remi! On vous souhaite beaucoup de bonheur!

After the ceremony, we headed up to Kashmir. It rained for a little while, and that was a little depressing...What was wonderful though, was that for the first time in weeks and weeks, we were cold! What a wonderful feeling! We slept all tucked under our big blanket, happy not to use our new fan :)

I was very happy to be in Kashmir, there are goats everywhere.

Once in Srinagar, we called our friend Peter, a Kashmiri man we met in Delhi. He came to get us, and took us to a safe parking for the wombat. After, he offered us hospitality in one of his luxurious houseboats. He has been so lovely to us, and we appreciate it! Kashmir is so beautiful, and it’s great to try Kashmiri food and learn Kashmiri customs from Peter. We love the bread and the tea (cinnamon and cardamom, no milk). We took boat rides on the lake, and really got to enjoy the beauty of Srinagar. Also, the beds on the houseboat are super comfortable! Thank you Peter!

Now, it is late at night. I am watching 20-20 cricket between Pakistan and Australia. Australia just made 108-10. The 2nd lowest in 20-20 history. I’m too tired to watch the rest. Also, Peter changed the channel and fell asleep, and I don’t want to bother him for the remote. There are loud “Breaking News” about Pakistan fighting the Taliban...Such a contrast from Pakistani cricket to this...

Tomorrow we will check out Srinagar some more. We may go up to Leh and do a loop back down to Amristar. We don’t really know if we want to go to Pakistan early and tempt to get our Iranian visa early, or wait until the end of the month...We’ll decide very soon. Right now, I’m thoroughly enjoying beautiful Kashmir, and all it has to offer.

Marie-Claude

Ready to Leave New Delhi

1 May 2009

My goodness it’s hot! I’m sitting outside, still at Nerhu Park, and I can’t believe how incredibly hot it is!

We’ve had a fun week. We drove down to Agra to visit the amazing Taj Mahal. Before we left, we heard mixed reviews from our French friends... The drive there was everything but fun! The drivers were exceptionally annoying! We arrived in Agra and found a camping spot about 300m from the Taj Mahal. It was recommended to us by Lucie and Fabrice, two French overlanders. We were impressed. The only downside was that it was next to a temple where they performed cremations, so it made the area very very hot. It was over 50C outside! I fell asleep in the car, and Jonny on a chair outside. We took it easy in the evening and decided to visit the Taj early the next morning.

In the morning, we walked to the Taj. There were many people trying to sell us tiny plastic Taj Mahals. Once we arrived, we paid the entry fee. 1500 Rs for the both of us. Had we been Indian, it would have cost us 20 Rs!! Well, for paying 1500 Rs, they gave us 1L complimentary water and little hospital slippers to wear on our feet, so we didn’t have to remove our shoes. After the tickets, we had to go through security. We don’t have a guide book, so we didn’t know that you couldn’t bring in chargers. We keep our camera charger in the camera bag, and the guard made a big fuss. He looked through the bag and took out lady things and asked what they were...my goodness! He found a little pocket mirror and said it wasn’t allowed in! Ah! He was on a giant power trip...Anyway, Jonny walked back to the wombat to put away the dangerous camera chargers and forbidden pocket mirror. Once he came back, we forgot about the whole thing and put our good-mood faces on. I was already impresses at the Taj’s front gate! It was funny to read that the Emperor built the Tah Mahal in the memory of his “favourite wife”. Once we walked in, I was awestruck! The Taj isn’t huge, but it is quite beautiful! Jonny and I took the time to appreciated the gardens and all the details that went into building the thing. There were many tourists, but that didn’t matter. We got there early enough to avoid the mass. Many Indians ask to take a photo with us, so we asked to take a photo with them! After about 3 hours of frolicking around, we decided to leave. We went to eat a good lunch at a rooftop restaurant with a view of the Taj Mahal. At about 2 o’clock, we had done what we wanted to do...Agra as a city is not the best. It’s full of tourist traps and eager merchants... Also, it’s at least 5C hotter than New Delhi. I couldn’t imagine us sitting in the car for the whole day, so we decided to head back to New Delhi. At Nerhu Park we have good company, a shower and it’s much cooler!

So we hung around, drank beer, and played tarot with our French friends .Yesterday, it was Amandine’s birthday so we threw her a big bash! We ate all night and had a blast! Lucie, Mathilde, her 5-year old son Merlin and I spent the day running around New Delhi in the markets looking for supplies for the feast. The most marking part of the day was the meat market. The main dish for the feast was Pasta Carbonara, so we needed lard. There is no way for you to imagine the meat market without having been there. There is fish all over the place, goat heads on the floor, armies of flies, chickens in tiny cages, large piles of pieces of animals and loud Indian men trying to convince you to buy their stuff. To wrap things up, there was a strange liquid on the floor, not quite water, not quite blood, not quite fat...Anyway, Mathilde and I went into the pork shop to get the lard. The shop consisted of large piles of pork on a desk, an incense burner to keep the flies off and a man with a large knife behind a table. The shop was less than a meter wide...Mathilde and I, both a little uncomfortable, tried to figure out what to get. I am a little uneasy with meat, having been a vegetarian for a long time. Well, once we picked the meat the man proceeded to cut the piece. Merlin shows up holding a live chicken by the wings, we all have a good chuckle. He leaves and we focus on the pork again. Then, of course, my good luck stuck again. CHOP one cut, CHOP two cuts, CHOP a large chunk of fat on Marie-Claude’s chest. I start screeching like a moron, Mathilde doesn’t understand what’s going on. She wipes it off, I calm down. We pay and get the h out of there as quick as possible

MC

Jonny continuing:

The evening went well, we had rum and mango juice as apetizers, followed the main dish of pasta carbonara, and then finishing off with chocolate cake and cheese (brie and camembert), accompanied by scores of beer. Amandine got a couple of cute little gifts from the group, and after a lot of laughing and kidding around, we went to bed quite jolly.

Now we plan on leaving tomorrow to go to Kashmir. We want to see Srinagar, and maybe make our way all the way up to Leh, where we want to give a 5800m pass a try- apparently the highest motorable road in the world.

Relaxing in New Delhi

20 April 2009

We drove very far and quickly to New Delhi to get the Iranian visa process started.

After spending most of our time in Nepal sick, we figured we would take it easy in New Delhi. It doesn’t really feel like we’re in India here! It is very clean, new and not full of life like the other cities! Well, it’s a good place to take a breather.

At the Iranian embassy, we were told to go through an online service to get the proper documents to apply for the visa! Oof! We did, and were told that things are really backed up due to Iranian new years... Well, this means we can’t get the documents and apply for the visa until mid May, which means we’re sort of stuck until we can. Well, there are worst places to be stuck in the world! Also, we are pretty motivated to get this done because it is the last visa we will need for the trip!

We are currently staying at Nehru park. It right in the city, and parking only costs 50 Rs a day! Bathroom and showers are right nearby. There is a slew of friendly French overlanders staying there as well (most are also waiting on the Iranian visa). We were welcomed with open arms, and we feel like we’re part of the little family. Many of them know each other because they were stuck in Turkey waiting on the Iranian visa there! Most of them are heading back to Europe, through Pakistan and Iran, so chances are we’ll see lots of them. It is wonderful to see people travelling with children and even pets! We have two vigilant guard dogs at the camp site, and we feel very safe.

So we are spending our days lazing around in the hammock, having water fights with the kids and grown ups, drinking some cold beers and eating good food, all in great company! There are a few things we need to deal with in the Wombat, but there’s no rush.

We plan to go to Agra soon, to see the famous Taj Mahal. The only thing, though, is that it is going to be hot. Really hot! The forecast for New Delhi this week is: 41C, 41C, 39C, 38C, 39C and 41C. All sunny. Agra is meant to be hotter than New Delhi, so I can’t even imagine... It looks like we’re going to have a lot of water fights this week, even if it angers some of the park attendants.

Marie-Claude

ps. Jonny got a haircut! I was trying to do it, but it turns out that one of our fellow overlanders is a professional hair dresser! Sweet deal!

Beautiful Varanasi

30 March 2009

We are loving India!

It was a bit of a shock at first, but you get into the swing of things very quickly. The food is lovely and the people are always entertaining. We’ve been treated greatly! We can’t get enough of the tea!

Driving has not been as bad as we expected. It is definitely a different style of driving, but easy to master. Simply keep your hand on the horn and use it liberally (ie, when overtaking, when being overtaken, when crossing a intersection, when turning...well, the only time you don’t honk is when no one else is in sight...and even then). Also, as Homer Simpson once said, “if I can’t see it it’s not illegal”, so anything goes as long as you watch out for others you can see. The ones you can’t see look out for themselves. And you must absolutely obey the “Big boat rule”. There is no “right of way” in India. The big boys will go first, and the little guys either move out of the way, or get trampled. Trucks will swing into your lane and force you off the road. Equally, though, the wombat is free to force rickshaws, motorbikes, cyclists and pedestrians off the road when it wishes. Don’t plan to drive over 50km/h, average. Oh, and of course, the cows are the King of the road. They move when they want, and you will stop for them...What we’re trying to say is: In India, anything goes! Frankly, it’s not always scary, it’s mostly fun.

We were planning to drive straight to Varanasi, but stopped in Bandhavgarh National Park. It was recommended to us by a fellow Toyota owner, while the Wombat was getting an oil change. We were not impressed with the state of the roads on the way to the park, but the experience made up for it! We saw many animals, and had a great time. It is quite an adrenaline rush to see a tiger in the wild! We shared our safari truck with two nice couples. It was great to chat with them, and have a laugh. We ate dinner together and traded photos. It was a lot of fun. (We hope to see you in Frankfurt and Brussels!)

So we had a good time driving North and have made it to Varanasi.

First, we checked into the hotel. We are paying a fee lower than their room rates to park in the back and use their facilities. The hotel is beautiful and worth it. Today, we took advantage of the pool and swam for a long while. We hadn’t been in a pool since Gaultier’s house in Bangkok and we had not swam since our second stop in Koh Lanta, so we were very glad.

Earlier today, we decided to go visit Old Town: the attraction. We thought about taking a rickshaw there but one thing led to another and we ended up walking the whole 5km to the burning ghats. We enjoyed seeing what the locals were up to. We stopped for a great lunch: a set meal with dahl, curd and another massala, as well as aloo-gobi, unlimited paratha and some rice! all Delicious! We also had tea, and we were intrigued to see that it was served in terra cotta cups that are only used once and thrown in the gutter. We agreed that it is a great idea! Indians drink a lot of tea, and the little plastic cups were piling up everywhere!

Later, we saw a parade supporting the Congress party. We had heard of the upcoming election (it messed up the Indian Premier League schedule!) and I was wondering if we would get to witness anything related to it. Anyway, the parade was wild! The traffic was insane and the people were very passionate! We looked on and took photos! We were happy to see that. After getting decked out in Congress Party attire thanks to a stranger, we walked on. We were stopped by a man all in white who asked us to come in his yard for a photo. It turns out that some politlicians were sitting around and saw us wearing the gear. They were very amused that foreigners would take part, and took the opportunity to tell us a little bit about the Congress party. We were happy to meet them.

We walked on through a series of tiny alleys stopping at every turn to ask where the Manikaranika Ghat was. The Manikaranika Ghat is the only traditional burning ghat in Varanasi. It is where bodies are cremated on a pile of wood (after a specific series of rituals) and the ashes put into the Ganges. Varanasi is the only place where a Hindu may leave the cycle of reincarnation and the soul be freed. Families come from all over India for this ceremony. Many ill or aged people come to Varanasi to die. Although it may sound morbid, it is a great thing to see. The respect and devotion displayed by loved ones toward their dead family members is quite moving. Out of respect, nobody takes photos of the burning Ghats. A photo would not show how touching the sight is, you need to experience it for yourself.

India is a place so rich in culture and tradition. We love that Indians readily share these things and are making our time here very special. There is still so much to see (and eat) we can’t wait!

MC

Bangalore

22 March 2009

We left Chennai behind us, and headed for Bangalore. We arrived quite late, but luckily we found a hotel that would let us stay in their parking lot for free. The next day, MC was feeling quite ill, and we checked into the said hotel so she could get a good rest.

MC feeling a little better the next day, we strolled around MG road(short for Mahatma Gandhi) and had a look at the fancy stores. Bangalore feels a lot more modern than Chennai, at least in some neighbourhoods. We found a new book for MC to keep her diary, and looked for a Tendulkar jersey, but in vain.

We tried to find another hotel to stay in (the one we were at was quite a bit above our means) and found a nice one with the help of a friend, where we could park the car safely in the back. Nothing too exciting has happened really, except for the food which is still as yummy as before! I took MC to see a doctor (hospital loves bureaucracy as much as the port) and she will be better in no time.

JD

India!

18 March 2009

After over a week over wrangling and winding our way through indian bureaucracy, we have finally freed the wombat from the port of Chennai. I cannot even begin describing the amount of pointless formalities that was necessary, but what I can say is that without the help from our friend Ramesh, I would have probably lost my mind and my calm several times!

The week we spent in Chennai has been useful though. I find that it has helped us get accustomed to the way things run here, as well as get accustomed to India itself, its cities, its roads, its food, and its people.

The city of Chennai is extremely lively, with crowds everywhere you go, and touts asking you to change money or take a ride in their rickshaw. The roads are a cacophony of horns and sirens with motorcycles, rickshaws trucks and buses competing to get to their destination the quickest possible. All this seems to happen in a completely disorganized fashion, but I find there is a loose logic to the way they drive here.

Sadly, the first thing you notice straight away is the garbage. It’s everywhere, and it seems like nobody really cares about it. People don’t use bins, they just chuck everything on the side of the road. And then, you notice the smells. The rivers are the worst. There is a foot of black gunk on the edge of the river, with the water itself having a repulsive colour, and the smell..well you can imagine. You have to learn to accept it, as the Indians do, and just learn to clean your hands twice as often as you usually do.

There is no doubt about the high note of our first couple of days here: the food. Many people are vegetarian here, and that has made MC quite happy. We can have a delicious veg meal, with drinks, for 80 rupies, which is under 2 USD. Paratha, dosai, poori, idly, are all different forms of pancake/bread that you dip in dhal or various chutneys, and i have never been once disappointed. This is only the south indian food I am talking about, there is more to come! I would say that on the food level, India has blown all the other countries away, with maybe the exception of Thailand.

As I mentioned earlier, we have met a very friendly gentleman named Ramesh here in Chennai. Ramesh happened to be at the Port Pass section when MC and I were trying to get a pass issued so that we could access the port. A necessary step to get a port pass was to get immigration clearance, but the immigration office was ironically located inside the port. Talk about a catch 22! Luckily, our guardian angel Ramesh helped us get around this.

We were quite excited that Ramesh invited us over to his house for lunch last Sunday, and we got to meet his lovely wife and two adorable girls, had some food, and chatted about everything and nothing. It turns out that Ramesh works two jobs, he works for the Chennai Port Trust, maintaining the container cranes during the day, and at night he puts on his uniform and works as a police officer. I was quite surprised to learn this, and later on he admitted that this detail had helped us when dealing with the port bureaucracy.

Now our plan is to drive to Bangalore, and from there we are going to head north towards Hyderabad and through the centre of the country. And eat more indian food. yum yum.

One detail- we ran out of batteries for the digital camera, so that is why there are so few pictures of our first week.

JD